Danny Guadagnoli
The trip north from San Jose del Cabo, Mexico is a winding drive through dried riverbeds and a desolate landscape of endless cacti.
The many wooden crosses lining the narrow highway serve as a reminder that you’re in a wild place and ought to exercise caution.
It was late June, and my dad and I were driving north from the San Jose airport on another surfcasting excursion to Baja.
Instead of going south toward the Cabo area (as we had done in the past), our destination was Rancho Leonero, a small, legendary fishing lodge that sits along the most famed Roosterfish waters in the world - the East Cape.
More...
At some point during my struggles to catch these fish form shore in Cabo, I dug deeper in my research and found that most Roosterfish world records hailed from the East Cape, in a specific stretch of coast simply referred to as “Rooster Alley.”
It happens to be the best place in the world to sight cast for Roosterfish along the beaches. If you’re into fly fishing, the East Cape is simply unparalleled.
The drive from San Jose isn’t terribly long, but the tight turns and reckless drivers (who will often pass you if you’re not speeding) make for a stressful start to your vacation. I promise it's worth it.
When you finally turn off the highway onto the dirt road which leads toward the lodge, and the sparsely populated towns nestled on the Sea of Cortez, it’s a sigh of relief. Herds of cows and goats line this bumpy path with almost no sign of civilization in sight, besides the occasional passing car.
“Good…at least people live here,” I thought.
Rancho Leonero Lodge
As we got closer to the lodge, we saw some old signage that read “Rancho Leonero,” and the tenseness of the drive quickly converted to excitement. Moments later, the dirt road ended in the cobblestone parking lot of our destination where we were greeted by the hostess and led to our room.
The Rancho Leonero Lodge is simple— a small grouping of two bed cabanas, a main office, and an open bar/restaurant that served guests cold drinks and three meals a day.
As we arrived, the lodge’s fleet of boats were returning one by one to the wooden dock that extends from the base of the lodge. The previously empty bar quickly turned into a bustling social hour for fishermen.
It became clear that everyone staying at Rancho was there for one reason: the fishing.
Word of warning about Wesley Bough (cabosurcaster). He agreed to take me out Feb, 2018. Said he’d send an invoice to finalize the booking. Then, nothing, until an apology 2 days after we were supposed to go out. The whole point, which was explained to him in an email was to learn where to go early in my trip so I could have fun the rest of the week. Emailed tonight, offering last spot in a group trip the day before i leave. “Thanks! for nothing…” Huge bummer, as could have booked with someone dependable and not wasted 3 days fending for myself. Met Stephan Jansen hiimself (you can see his videos on you tube) who set me up with where to go and what to use. Anyways, stay clear of cabosurfcaster. Unreliable at best. sure he’s a great guy, and really knowledgable, but you’re taking a chance with dependability!
Planning Cabo in 17 Any info you can give? best time? already planning to hit jansen’s for some rooster hardware and info. Was also thinking of getting a Guide for a day just to get some local info (Westley Brough)
That’s awesome! I would definitely go in June if possible. Try to be there between mid May and early July.
I fished with Wesley, and he’s a great guide. If you go with him early on in your trip, he’ll show you some spots that have been producing and you can focus your attention there afterwards. Bait seems to pile up in certain areas and he and Jansen will know best where to direct you. Definitely a must to hit Jansen’s shop early on in your trip.
Hope that helps!
Danny
Thank you Danny. Love the article, pictures, and ATV. I would have a blast in this area.
Thanks, Jake! It’s a very cool place. Certainly worth a trip.
great article. will have to put that spot on the list next time we visit family in La Paz!! i hear ya with the drivers there. Man alive! i literally need a day to compose my nerves after the drive between cabo and la paz.
Haha I appreciate it! Those drives around the highways on Baja can get a little hairy to say the least. Definitely worth a trip to the East Cape if you’re in the area.
I enjoyed reading your article. Makes me want to go there!
Thanks, Dex! It’s worth the trip. You can hit Cabo and East Cape in the same week easily and do a few days at each. The East Cape is a very affordable are as well, as it’s not really developed.